Channel Drains - Options, Ideas and Information

Channel Drains

A channel drain, also commonly called a trench or strip drain, is surface water collection drainage solution. They are designed to catch flow coming into the top grate and down into a long linear drain channel (trench) which then diverts water into a piped drainage system and to an outlet area or into storage location. The channel can be premanufactured or constructed out of any number of materials such as concrete.  Grates can be HDPE or Brass depending on usage and how decorative it needs to be.  For information on other outdoor drain options, visit our catch basin drainage page  

Best Uses for Trench / Channel Drains

Channel drains are typically used as a part of hardscape applications where water is moving across large surface planes, rather than be funneled to one small area. Channel drains work well to prevent water from reaching an unwanted location, such as running into a garage and preventing the runoff from pool-decks from draining into a pool. Generally speaking, we do not recommend using channel drains in lawn areas. Because of their long length, channel drains are prone to popping up or sinking too low on one end or another due to freeze thaw cycles, when installed directly in soil.   Here are some of appropriate application spaces for channel drains in MN:
  • Driveways
  • Pool Decks
  • Patios
  • Walkways
  • Parking lots
  • Doorways
  • Landings / aprons

Types of channel Drain - Options 

Light Duty - Pedestrian Foot Traffic

  • Slot Channel :  A slot drain has a very slim channel that does not have a grate on top. Its slim profile has a less noticeable appearance on the landscape.  However, this also limits how much water it can intake. Best used in high traffic pedestrian areas where water may otherwise pool up. 
  • Micro Channel :  Also has a low-capacity narrow slim profile channel drain of about 1” to 1.5” wide but has a grating on top to prevent objects from falling into the channel. Best for light foot traffic and pool areas. Very affordable for residential applications.

A picture of a slot drain on a tiled floor.

  • Slim Channe l: A small capacity option with 2” wide removable grate foot traffic areas of pool and paver spaces.
  • Mini Channel : A small capacity of option about 3” wide for pedestrian use around pools, patios, tennis courts, etc.
Medium Duty Traffic
  • 4”-6" wide channel for light vehicular traffic areas in applications such as driveways, parking areas, and terraces.
Heavy Duty Traffic
  • Vehicular traffic load rated options with heavy duty channel, 4”–12” in width. Decorative grate options in HDPE, steel, or cast iron.  Options for slope at the bottom of the drain
  • Pre-cast Concrete : Large capacity, heavy duty options from 4”-12” for residential and commercial applications such as parking lots, driveways, and roads. Wide variety of decorative grate options.

How to Choose the Right Channel Drain for Best Results

Choosing the right channel drain material for the application, and correctly sizing is the key to whether a channel drain will fail or succeed. 
Some questions to determine the right size and type of channel drain are:
  1. How much water will be going into the channel drain?   You will need to determine the peak discharge going into the channel drain and size it properly using the rational method.  The Rational Method of Q=CiA is calculated by taking by runoff coefficient of the surface type (C) and multiplying inch per hour rainfall intensity (i) it by the sub-catchment surface area (A).  (Q) is the max surface runoff volume.   Refer to this page for more info https://www.lmnoeng.com/Hydrology/rational.php
  2. What is the slope of the installation surface?   Larger slopes = faster moving water, which generally means a wider channel drain is needed to prevent water from washing over and past the drain during heavy rain events.
  3. Will cars or heavy equipment be driven over it?   If being applied in a driveway application the channel drain must first meet the specific load requirements. You’ll need to determine the specific load capacity for your application based on what will be driven over it. For example, you wouldn’t want to use a pedestrian load grate where vehicles will be going over top of it or it will fail under the weight of a car.  If using a manufactured product, you can to refer to the manufacturer’s specifications for information.  If constructing a channel drain you will need to consult a qualified professional or civil engineer for proper sizing.
  4. How will water be discharged from the channel drain?   Since this outlet of this system is underground, you need to determine where that is running to.  Is it connected to the piping of a larger system, like a city storm sewer?  Does it have a surface outlet such as a pond where it could run to?  Do you need to empty into a dry well where water can slowly soak into the ground below the frost line? 

How to Install a Channel Drain

  • Dig a linear channel with enough depth to fit the trench drain and 4” of class 5 base gravel and 1” setting sand. Follow manufacturers specifications if using their product.
  • Install and compact class 5 base gravel and use long level or string level to ensure a level base or to match adjacent slop if needed, then add 1" setting sand
  • Insert channel drain starting from furthest inlet point and working toward outlet.  Fit as required. 
  • Install and seal endcaps of the channel drain.
  • Connect the outlet drain pipe and seal completely to prevent and leakage.
  • Install grates
  • Pour concrete, place pavers once the channel drain is fully in place.  Make sure to include a slope with at least ¼” per foot slope running toward the drain.  Allow time to cure before removing grates

Channel Drain Maintenance

Channel drains are fairly easy to maintain. The grates are easily removeable allowing for simple cleanout. Because the grates are open it allows debris, dirt and leaves to filter in. The design of the grate does have some influence to the size and amount of the debris it allows through to collect in the bottom of the trench.  Removing the grates annually and cleaning out the trench prevents debris buildup and keeps the outlet from clogging. 

Ready to Start on Your Next Project?

Call us at (763) 568-7251 or visit our quote page.

By Kent . October 16, 2025
Plymouth’s clay soil causes soggy lawns, sinking patios, and constant sump pump issues. Learn how smart drainage design fixes it for good.
By Kent . October 14, 2025
Minnetonka snow removal done right means safety, efficiency, and property protection—not just plowing. Learn how true winter care works.
By Kent . October 11, 2025
Plymouth drainage problems? Fix soggy clay soil and prevent foundation and patio damage with smart drain tile, grading, and discharge solutions.
By Kent . October 5, 2025
Edina lawn fertilization: seasonal strategies for lasting color and health. Expert insights on timing, topdressing, and soil care.
By Kent . October 2, 2025
Design a Minnetonka outdoor kitchen built for all seasons — cedar, stone, and smart drainage make year-round living effortless.
By Kent . October 1, 2025
Medina lawn experts explain how healthy soil—not chemicals—creates lasting weed control through aeration, overseeding, and topdressing.
By Kent . October 20, 2025
Medina drainage experts explain how French drains and drain tile systems fix clay soil water issues and prevent muddy lawns and shifting patios.
By Kent . September 29, 2025
Edina patio and pool drainage: protect your investment with smart design and precision installation that keeps surfaces beautiful, safe, and stable year-round.
By Kent . September 28, 2025
When Pergolas Don’t Last, There’s Always a Reason After nearly two decades of building outdoor spaces across Medina, I’ve seen what happens when pergolas aren’t designed for Minnesota’s conditions. You can spot them a mile away—posts that lean, beams that twist, and concrete pads that have heaved out of level after just a couple of winters. It’s not because homeowners cut corners intentionally. It’s usually because whoever built it didn’t account for what our climate really does to structures that aren’t anchored right. Medina’s heavy clay soil doesn’t drain well. It holds moisture, freezes solid, and then expands like a hydraulic press pushing on everything above it. When pergolas are set on surface-level post bases, that pressure has nowhere to go but up—and the whole thing moves. Even small shifts can cause joints to separate, wood to crack, and hardware to loosen. That’s how a $15,000 structure starts looking tired after a few years instead of standing straight for decades. The truth is, pergolas here aren’t just about shade or looks. They’re about structure, drainage, and how every piece ties into the patio beneath it. A pergola that stands tall through Minnesota winters is built on the same principles as a good foundation—it’s only as strong as what’s underneath it. If you live in Medina and want to enjoy your backyard without worrying about your investment warping or sagging, start with design that respects the environment it’s built in. That means thinking beyond lumber and stain colors. It means understanding soil movement, water management, and the importance of integrating your pergola with the patio below it.
By Kent . September 27, 2025
Solutions for Properties in Minnetonka You can always tell a Minnetonka yard that’s fighting its slope. Water doesn’t lie, it finds the weak spots every time. I’ve walked plenty of properties where a backyard starts beautiful in June, but by September, the patio is heaving, the grass near the pool looks like a marsh, and the homeowner is wondering how it got so bad so fast. The truth is, when you’re dealing with rolling terrain and heavy clay soils like we have around Minnetonka, you can’t just move dirt and hope gravity behaves. You need a plan that manages water from the surface all the way down through the subsoil. This is what I’ll walk you through here. You’ll see what actually causes drainage issues on sloped properties, how poor planning leads to cracked patios and shifting pool decks, and the smart drainage systems that can stop those problems for good. Whether you live near Lake Minnetonka or up in the higher ridges closer to Deephaven or Woodland, understanding how your yard sheds water is the difference between a property that lasts and one that’s constantly under repair. The Real Challenge of Sloped Minnetonka Yards Minnetonka is known for its hills, lakefront properties, and mature trees, but all that beauty comes with a set of challenges below the surface. Most of the soil here is dense clay. It holds water like a sponge and drains slowly, which means after every heavy rain, that water looks for a way downhill. If it doesn’t have a proper outlet, it ends up collecting right where you don’t want it, like along your patio, at the base of a retaining wall, or near your pool deck. I see this every season: homeowners trying to solve slope problems with a quick regrade, a layer of rock, or a simple surface drain. Those things might help for a while, but they don’t address what’s really happening underground. Clay soil doesn’t just get wet—it becomes saturated, expanding and contracting with every freeze-thaw cycle. When that happens under a patio or wall, it doesn’t matter how well-built the surface looks. The ground will move, and that movement cracks stone, shifts pavers, and slowly tears apart everything on top. The other challenge with sloped lots is how water interacts with gravity. It accelerates downhill, gaining momentum as it goes. When it hits a flat area like a patio, the water loses speed but not volume, pooling instead of flowing. That’s why I tell clients that “flat spots” on a sloped property are both an opportunity and a responsibility. They’re the best spaces to create usable outdoor areas, but they have to be engineered to handle water movement. I’ve worked on plenty of Minnetonka yards where the backyard has a beautiful view but terrible grading. You can have a perfect slope on paper, but if it directs water toward your house or creates a bowl effect between structures, you’ll end up with soggy soil and standing puddles that never dry. The goal is to move water off and away while keeping the surface level enough for comfort and usability. It’s a fine balance, but when it’s done right, it completely transforms how a property functions.